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American Jewelers Institute

Course Description


 

Tool Orientation:

                Introduction to the use and care of jewelry tools.  Advantages and disadvantages of different tools and recommendations are given.  Making gravers, push tools and beading tools and proper use of flexible shaft  is learned.

Introduction:

                Cutting, piercing, hand filing is learned in our first few projects. You will learn both through observation and practice what tools to use and the proper use of those tools, and well as a few trade secrets used in the industry. Introduction to the equipment used in the making of jewelry will also be introduced such as  polishing  laths, buffing compounds, picking the right rough for the different metals. Ultrasonic and steam cleaning will also be reviewed.  

Metal Fabrication:

                 Construction of jewelry from flat stock and wire is covered. The use of the  rolling mill, and draw plates will be practiced. You will pour silver ingots in a mold frame. Fabrication of shanks, cluster and side prong tops, special heads, bails and clasps. 

Casting:

                Introduction to casting equipment, including use of the entire centrifugal casting process, from investing to final product.  Emphasis is on proper techniques and thorough knowledge of each step.  Covers rubber mold making and production techniques.

 

Section 2

 

Soldering Techniques:

Working with the jewelers torch, proper flame adjustment, proper soldering with extensive practice projects. Choosing the right torch, tips, and adjusting the flame to achieve the right amount temperature and heat transfer will be studied and practiced.

 

Jewelry Repairs:

Sizing up and down, half shanking, square and dove fittings, replacing heads, wedding bands, shanking, prongs, tipping, and chain repair.

Intensive development of repair skills

 

Problem Solving:

Demonstrations of common difficulties in repair and design and some solutions are given.  Extensive information on repair in both practice and theory.  Fabrication of various pieces to demonstrate problems encountered and their solutions.

 Cautions:

Areas of concern to repair and manufacture are covered in depth from work hazards to sensitive stones and metal finishes.  Emphasis is given to the problems encountered in the repair business.  See above.

 

Section 3

 Stone setting:

  • Prong setting is the most common type of diamond and colored stone setting. The proper ways to set stones in prongs and the importance of symmetry height shape and size of each prong is taught. 

  • Bezel setting. You will be making your own bezels, using pre-made bezels learn to set the stones in these bezels, burnish the edges over and finishing.

  • Burnish setting. Involves the process of setting stones without prongs or channels accomplishing a very clean look.

  • Channel setting. Possibly the most dramatic way to set stones with many variations to achieve different effects.

  • Setting fancy shapes. Pear shape, Marquise and Baguette shaped stones.

 

Section 4

Finishing:

Various materials for, and methods of obtaining the best possible results for the finished product.  Matching the right buff, rouge and polish to the job (type of metal) is carefully explored. The use of the flex shaft in obtaining the preliminary finish, and the final finishing on polishing equipment to obtain a high luster.

 

Wax Carving and Modeling:             

Considerable time is spent on hand carving school projects to develop your skills in wax. Choosing proper wax for projects, introduction to carving techniques, building models and proper spruing methods using preformed molds.

 Rubber Mold Construction:

After you have created your jewelry pieces, you may want to make duplicates. You will learn the mold making process, learn to use the vulcanizer to cure your mold, and the process of cutting the mold properly. You will also discover the difference between rubber and silicon molds.

 Costs:

           For current tuition costs please e-mail or use our Contact Us link below and we will    mail out our brochure plus a registration form with tuition costs, registration fees, and a complete breakdown of tools, supplies and books necessary for our course.

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